My Holy Walkathon-Gratitude

My whole journey has been wrapped in moments of gratitude. But certain moments have greater meaning to gratitude.  

I entered the state of Uttarakhand. I had been walking in the rain almost everyday but that was manageable with poncho. Earlier anticipated walking less distances on mountain roads than plains but surprisingly felt more energetic while walking in the mountains and walked long distances until 4 pm daily. Except the day when got caught in thunderous rain drenching me despite my poncho and making me shiver with a chill feel. Some days walking with zero visibility.

Plenty of landslides and damaged roads on the way due to torrential rains, nevertheless, maintenance work was swift and the road opened within a few hours after being blocked by debris. In fact being a walker I could walk through debris as well though with great caution. At many stretches walked in slush. Wading through water was a routine. Used to carry spare shoes in my backpack. Those days I had to walk in slippers with ankle straps. 

In spite of weather restrictions on mountains I was experiencing  great fitness levels. Surely, this was the result of the outstanding panorama that I was walking through. Countless cascades and trickling streams, creating magic with pearly water and burbling sound. And the amazing landscape. Each time I was spellbound

Being aware of the fact that holy Ganga’s ‘palki’ comes to lower altitude village Mukhwa in winter and goes back to Gangotri Dham in summer, I was curious to walk on that route. Came to know that much before Mukhwa, an off-road village route can lead me to that path. But I needed an experienced local person to walk with me on such a route. I finalized Nakul as he had done mountain treks with me and lived in a nearby village.  

A suspense in waiting. On the way to Harsil there was a river without any bridge which needed to be crossed. I probed in Jaspur Bend how local people manage and knew that only few people use that route and they cross it at a particular juncture where the river spreads in shape of hand with five streams, before merging in holy Ganga. But that too can be done in the early morning and with some experience of crossing rivers. They advised Nakul to seek the cooperation of local boys who will help me cross. I was ready to pay a reasonable amount if some boys were ready to help. Nakul tried hard but no one was ready. He was disappointed. 

I told Nakul to leave that effort and we will take the road route. Nakul did not agree. He just asked me to believe in him. He will first himself cross the river and check the depth then make me cross. I kept on strongly telling him not to try this but he insisted. Next morning we moved. Thankfully one restaurant was open and we had tea. Nakul told them about my Ganga walk. In the meantime a middle aged person entered. After knowing about my holy walk he volunteered to help. 

That gentleman narrated the holy Ganga historical route to me. Showed me significant structures on the way and made me place a stone at a particular spot as in old times pilgrims did . There were already plenty of stones and few were with a peculiar mark. It was believed after doing so they will safely complete their journey. I prayed and kept one small stone above others. It was non stop drizzling. Mountain trail ended and we reached the river bank. Kind man wished me success. I thanked him for his valued help and paced ahead. 

Nakul folded his pants and bravely crossed the river. That was above knee water. He crossed back to take me along. Asked me to piggyback him quickly. After crossing two streams I insisted on crossing myself.  Nakul instructed me to clutch his hand forcefully and move in anti flow direction with power steps, swiftly. I was loudly chanting for holy power and with incredible vigor crossed all streams. The moment I crossed, water swelled with a big roar as if it just waited for me to cross and then become impenetrable. Shocked at the sight, I stood in gratitude to divine. In disbelief. 

After having food at Harsil, I reached Mukhwa at noon. Went to the temple of Maa Ganga, as I call holy Ganga, and prayed. From this temple the ‘palki’ with an idol of Maa Ganga travels to Gangotri Dham temple on the shoulders of priests and devotees.

From Mukhwa I was walking through a dense jungle of pine trees on a well laid path but isolated. Thoroughly enjoyed my mountain walk. Walking with panache, despite my lower all wet while crossing the river and my legs trembling with cold sensation.

But that joy dampened after a few hours of walking when found the whole path filled with landslides. It looked as if no trail left. All vanished. Kept moving through landslides for a few kilometers in hope. Instead of getting a glimmer of a walking track, I saw the spine chilling scene ahead. That was a trench separating the path. I told Nakul firmly to not proceed any further on that route. But he was adamant. And left me bewildered by crossing that trench. Then knew I have to make it possible for me too. Examined rocks closely.  Nakul left rucksack on the track above and came down, checking for loose rocks. Instructed me to put my feet on a toehold while gripping one stone firmly and stay in that position until he gets on the other side and holds me to climb. I followed Nakul’s instructions blindly. Stood above in gratitude, again, seeing me alive with the grace of holy Ganga. And then laughed. Twice conquered death that day.

Later, Nakul told me that he was very scared inside though showed great courage outwardly on both occasions. There was a scenic track ahead. In ecstasy, I was rhythmically singing Har Har Gange.

My memoir : MYATULYAGANGAPARIKRAMA (designrr.page)

Sharing glimpses of my mountain and glacier treks during holy walkathon, in this short video.