My Holy Walkathon-Embrace

My mountain route in Uttarakhand state included on-road and off-road which had many challenging treks. All my mountain and glacier treks were managed by a reputed adventure company based at Uttarkashi.

Felt very fresh when I reached Gangotri despite walking more than 4400 km over several months. In the aura of holy Ganga. In tranquil calm. Decided to visit Gangotri Dham temple after returning from Gaumukh. Took much needed hot water bath and rested. 

On the 5th of September, I left for my Gaumukh trek where holy Ganga originates in the glacier. Elated. Much awaited moment was approaching. Porters carried all luggage that had ration, fuel, stove, tents, quilts and my bag.

Trek to Gaumukh was scenic and serene. Gurgling streams. Enchanting waterfalls. Exotic ‘bhojpatra ’ trees. Fascinating cliff formations. Snow capped peaks in the distance. Clouds changed the sight frequently. And not to forget the wooden bridges. Crafted creatively but difficult to balance the body on tiny planks while crossing. I had to keep my body in a peculiar position.

First rest point was Chirbasa. Named after ‘chir ’ trees. There was no restaurant. No tea joint. 

Few stretches were risky where the track was hardly one foot wide and slippery, harder to walk. Sheer cliffs needed to be traversed. 

Next rest point was Bhojbasa. Named after ‘bhojpatra ’ trees. There was a government run guest house cum restaurant. And one ashram too. Bhojbasa is a camping site. No camping is allowed at Gaumukh.  Chirbasa is a camping site as well. Both these sites are on the bank of holy Ganga. My night halt was at bhojbasa. Tents fixed. Cooking started. Hot tea followed by sumptuous dinner and again a round of tea for me. And a thermos full of warm water to keep me warm and keep my throat clear. 

Whole night it had been raining. But the weather changed in the morning. Sunlit views welcomed my walk to Gaumukh. From grasslands to boulders, the landscape changed every few moments. And so changed the pace of my walk between bouldering and crossing streams. 

The sight of Gaumukh was the moment which I had been waiting for months, walking thousands of kilometers. Stood with closed eyes for some time to sink in the proud moment. To be in bliss.

Gaumukh name was given to the source due to its cow snout shape.

Being at Gaumukh was as precious as being at Gangasagar. These have been the two milestones of my holy Ganga walk. Gaumukh meant more to me because I reached Gaumukh after fighting the unfavorable circumstances for months. Also from Gaumukh started the last leg of my holy walk to Prayagraj. 

After offering prayers at Gaumukh, my instructor Vishnu directed me to the moraines to reach Tapovan.  In fact the whole trek to Tapovan is glacier based. Loose scree and deceptive stones make it more difficult to trek.

Glacier trek is dangerous because there are hidden crevices everywhere and ice chunks falling all the time. Only allowed with an experienced instructor.  Gangotri glacier does not have a crystal clear look of ice as it is covered in multiple layers of soil.

Tapovan is well known for its divine feel. Saints live there in caves for years. Sometimes they have brick structures as well. I met Mauni baba there. Vishnu told him about my Ganga Parikrama. He had a long conversation with me. Mauni baba lived twelve years in silence. Just three months back he left his silence and started speaking.  

Along with Gaumukh and Gangotri glacier I wished to trek to Tapovan because this is the base for majestic Shivling peak. Gaumukh panorama is awesome when viewed from top. Another magical fact about Tapovan is that once climbed to the top, there is a different world altogether. Dusty view transforms into luring meadows. Exquisite. And heavenly. 

On return to Gangotri I visited Gangotri Dham temple.  The moment I stood in front of Maa Ganga idol at Gangotri Dham temple, my eyes welled up and I cried inconsolably. Temple priest made me sit and waited for me to calm down. Vishnu told the priest about my Ganga journey on foot. Priest wished me a successful journey. I poured my pain in front of the Ganga idol, how my walk was marred with such events which made my journey very difficult. If not for the blessings of Goddess Ganga, I would have never been able to reach Gaumukh. 

My walk from Gangotri Dham to Prayagraj took 50 days. I left my rucksack with Vishnu that had heavy winter items. Walked further with my backpack and shoulder bag. Tried to find stays each day on the way. All the time smiled. Nothing mattered anymore. Knew for sure that I will complete my holy walkathon. Just wished I did not have to encounter any more unpleasant occurrences. Walked with extreme caution.  Always felt the divine presence with me and often talked to her.

Two bizarre incidents as well and that too back to back. I was walking on Raebareli route. Suddenly heard something ruffling close to my feet and that was snake. Laughed seeing me not bitten. And other incident occurred in quick succession. A horse with a cart ran amuck. I did not notice because that was behind me. Only knew when heard people alarming me loudly. By that time that violent horse had already hit my right arm. But nothing serious. Kept laughing at strange occurrences.   

In Maa Ganga’s embrace, I completed my holy walkathon on 29th October 2021, with the total distance of 5645 kilometers covered in 218 days, at Samudrakup, Prayagraj, UP, dedicating to Atulya Ganga.

My holy walk proved to me, to all the women of my country, and to the women world over, that India, my country, is safe for women. There had been isolated unpleasant incidents but I consider them miniscule seeing the epic scale of my walk.  

My memoir : MYATULYAGANGAPARIKRAMA (designrr.page)

Sharing glimpses of my mountain and glacier treks during holy walkathon, in this short video.